I loved the gorillas so much that I decided the following day to make the climb to the summit of one of the volcanoes. But it was only after I cheerfully rocked up to the morning meeting point - to be greeted by three armed soldiers, an official government guide, a man with a machete, and hmmm no other hikers - did I realise what I had got myself in for.
Certainly my most drama-filled day in Rwanda so far, the four-hour climb to the summit involved being approached by an aggressive buffalo, witnessing an emergency military standby, cutting fresh tracks through some dense forest, and wading through tiring knee-deep mud. I suppose now I understand why I was given a five-man entourage all to myself, in this steep and misty jungle that continues into the troubled eastern Congo.
At the 3700m summit though I was treated to a stunning crater lake - and a view of some of the other striking peaks in this string of volcanoes. I guess it was worth it!
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